2019 Soave, Gianni Tessari, Veneto, Italy

Floral nose with white flowers and fruit pulp. The palate has lovely balance of stone fruit and acidity.

Grape Variety: 100% Garganega

Read our article on Gianni Tessari Soave here

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2019 Soave, Gianni Tessari, Veneto, Italy

Tasting Note

Floral nose with white flowers and fruit pulp. The palate has lovely balance of stone fruit and acidity.

Food Pairing

Risotto. Seafood

Producer info

Born in Monforte d’Alpone in 1963, Gianni Tessari started working in the family vineyards at a very young age and went on to study enology. With his brother he brought great success to the family winery, Cantine Tessari, including an astonishing 14 tre bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso. In 2013 he left the family business to start on his own and now has 55 hectares of vineyards from which he makes 3 Soaves, 4 red wines and 2 sparkling wines under the Durello label. As one would expect with his pedigree, the Soaves are impeccable, with the cru wines having immense power and minerality. Tai, a local red grape indigenous to Bereci, has been found to be genetically identical to Garnacha, Grenache and Cannonau, it has, however, developed here in isolation and has a character of its own.

Winemakers Notes

Producing a Soave DOC means to interpret non just the enological characteristics but first of all the essence that an enologist, like a sculptor, must extract from the grapes. And the essence of Soave is typicalness. It is being a wine of the origins, of traditions. About the history of a territory. Between the aromas of white flowers and light straw yellow colour, emanates powerfully a sensation of familiarity: each sip is a memory, something known and already lived through. Gianni Tessari winemaker

Reviews

“White spring flower and white orchard fruit aromas mingle with whiffs of beeswax on this fresh, polished white. The lovely palate shows ripe yellow apple, white peach and citrus zest before an almond and graphite finish” – Kerin O’Keefe, wine enthusiast magazine

“For many years, drinking the dry white wines of the Soave zone in the Veneto region of Italy was an exercise in cognitive dissonance. Watery and weak to the point of tasteless, they failed to provide the mellifluous, soft, easy charm promised by their name. As ever, greed was to blame: a boom in production had led to vineyards being planted in unsuitable areas far from the wines traditional home and producers maxing out the vines yield. Bland as they were, the wines filled the lists of generic Italian restaurants and shops, until drinkers moved on to the next big bland Italian thing: Pinot Grigio. Much of this ordinary soave is still made, but producers such as Gianni Tessari are now making something graceful but flavourful, floral and melon-scented that is worthy of the name” – David Williams, The Observer

Regional Info

Soave is arguably the most famous white wine DOC in Italy. Granted in 1968, the DOC title covers wines made from Garganega grapes grown in hillside vineyards east of Verona, in the Veneto wine region of northeastern Italy. A dry, crisp, fruity white wine, Soave’s naturally refreshing appeal led it to phenomenal popularity in the second half of the 20th Century.

Ask any wine drinker to name a well known Italian white and their answer is likely to be either Pinot Grigio or Soave. Names such as Gavi, Orvieto and Frascati might also figure on the list, but the sheer volume of Soave which has made its way out of Veneto in recent decades has drowned out the competition. The fact that Pinot Grigio figures alongside Soave as one of the most famous Italian wines is a sign of the times. It is a sign of the power shift from Old World to New World, a change in focus from village to vine, terroir to varietal. For now, though, the DOC system survives, and is adapting year by year to the demands of the variety-led modern wine consumer.

As with Chianti the quantity of Soave wine produced every vintage is much more consistent than its quality. The temptation to drive for higher yields (and thus higher turnover) has led many Soave producers to favour volume over value, to the eventual detriment of the Soave brand. The consequences of this have taken many years to filter through, but the negative effects are now being felt, and change is needed. In the hands of a quality-conscious producer Garganega can make classic white wines, both complex and satisfying; now that Trebbiano Toscano and Pinot Bianco have been removed from the official Soave blend, the variety’s natural potential can shine through. Garganega grapes must now constitute at least 70 percent of any modern Soave wine, accompanied by a maximum of 30 percent Chardonnay and Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio).

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